Here I describe the process of Tropicarium prototype building. Dimensions: width ― 12", length ― 12", height ― 24". Fluorescent lamp ― 22W, full spectrum from www.naturallighting.com. Fan ― 220V AC, 80 mm from Sunon. The fan could be computer cooler ultra silent fan (for example, from Cooler Master) 12V DC. I like the last one because it makes a little noise ― just 13 db and consume insignificant electric power. All plastic part were made from foamed polyvinylchloride (PVC) on MultiCam computer-driving milling machine.

Figure 1. Photo of wicket.

Figure 2. Photo of false roof made from acryl.

Figure 3. Photo of false floor.

The pattern of holes in the false floor is made to keep a system of cotton wires to increase the humidity level.

Figure 4. Photo of the plate for the top box.

Figure 5. Photo of the side plate with cut for water leveler.

The window for water leveler was made as a cut in a side plate, which was sealed with transparent acryl resin glue Acrifix 190. All PVC plates were made with 45° edge. I used a special glue for PVC called Cosmofen Plus HV.

Figure 6. Photo of the bottom box.

To keep metal rods out of water, I used a 3/8" acrylic tubes. I glued them into the box.

Figure 7. Photo and scheme of the profile.

To hold side glasses I used a PVC profile as shown on Fig. 7. To cut metal rods, acrylic tubes and PVC profile (at 45°) I used a Proxxon cut-off/mitre saw KGS80 (Fig. 8).

Figure 8. Photo of Proxxon cut-off/mitre saw KGS80.

Boxes, wicket and false floor were painted with special aerosol paint from Vinyl&Fabric (available from auto shop).

Figure 9. Photo of the false floor with attached bamboo tube.

To fix a bamboo tube to the false floor I used 4 thin screws. The partition in the bamboo stamp was removed with special drill 3" wide and it was treated with specail reagent to prevent fungal development.

Figure 10. Photo of the top box.

All electrical parts are fixed in the top box.

Figure 11. Photo of the back view of the top box with opened wicket.

Figure 12. Photo of the front view of the top box with closed wicket.

Figure 13. Photo of the bottom box from below.

You could see 4 legs with holes in them with inserted washers.

Figure 14. Detailed view of electrical fixture.

Figure 15. Detailed view of electrical fixture.

To keep electromagnetic drossel and fluorescent lamp, I used a 5/32" acrylic tube. I just made threading in them and fixed with screws.

Figure 16. Assembly of Tropicarium: step 1.

Insert 4 metal rods approximately 25" long into bottom box. They have screw nuts to keep them and completely covered with legs.

Figure 17. Assembly of Tropicarium: step 2.

Add 1-2 gallons of water to the bottom box.

Figure 18. Assembly of Tropicarium: step 3.

Place the bomboo tube with attached false floor into bottom box. Now you could see a water level in the bottom box.

Figure 19. Assembly of Tropicarium: step 4.

Place additional 4 bamboo sticks onto metal rods.

Figure 20. Assembly of Tropicarium: step 5.

Place a false roof.

Figure 21. Assembly of Tropicarium: step 6.

Place a top box.

Figure 22. Assembly of Tropicarium: step 7.

Put the cap female scews to fix all construction.

Figure 23. Assembly of Tropicarium: step 8.

Insert 4 gide glasses. I use ordinary glass, not acrylic because acryl has ability to soak water and it would bend inside.

Figure 24. Photo of water leveler.

Figure 25. Photo of the corner of Tropicarium.

All side glasses has the same dimensions and inserted in spyral way, like svastika, right or left, depending if you are right-handed or left-handed. So, it could be opened only in one side.

Figure 26. Photo of opened wicket.

Figure 27. Photo of closed wicket.

For more information, questions or comments, please contact Vasily Zakhartchenko